There is debate over the origins of the Mardi Gras Indians, but some research can bring to light the probable evolution of the tradition. When I initially asked about it, few people had answers, or the ones they gave me were conflicting. I wondered why, when the participants are largely African American, why they are obviously referencing Native American (Indian) culture?
After reading about the origins I found that the beginnings of the Krewes date back to the 1830's. Because the government forbade African Americans (or people of color whether slaves or freed) from parading on Mardi Gras, they rebelled by forming their own parades. Unfortunately, for many years competing Krewes did use violence in their effort to gain territory over their parade routes, although this has not been the case for a very long time.
In order to skirt the law they would keep parade times and routes secret often beginning early in the day and changing the routes as they went, sending out "Spy Boys" to see where other Krewes might cross their path. This is a "Flag Boy", but you can see how they identify themselves with their signage in matching beads and sequins.
According to these sources, black slaves began to socialize with the Native Americans in the area at the time (evidenced by many people's ethnic heritage here) and began to adopt some of their traditions for these costumes. At a certain point in history, though, when the government began to move the Native Americans to Reservations in the West, local African Americans distanced themselves from the culture in order to avoid being relocated. the traditions remained however, and in the way that is so very "New Orleans" they took the melange of cultures and evolved it into its own incarnation.
Here you can see how this tradition is a multi-generational family affair. One that is passed on from generation to generation. Each Krewe has a Chief, a Queen, a Flag Boy, a Spy Boy and others as well as the children who march alongside.
Although they have a violent past, the Mardi Gras Indians have evolved into more of a symbolic form of competition. One in which Krewes challenge each other through costume and dance, rather than actual violence.
As yet another secret society they do not announce the location of their parades and don't even apply for permits, so the only way to find them on parade days is word of mouth, or locals who where the elders live and their likely paths.
The costumes are one of the most important elements of the competition and participants spend all year carefully (and secretly) creating them.
Each year a new suit is created although the bead patches are often recycled into new costumes. The beaded patches often depict battle scenes reminiscent of American Indian illustrations. As they dance they hide the patches and reveal them first when challenging an opponent.
I'll catch up with my Beijing posts soon. But for now a little snapshot of New Orleans. The week leading up to Mardi Gras includes numerous parades, and on Mardi Gras day several parades weave through the city. The St. Ann's Parade includes hundreds of artists and musicians in handmade costumes who march from the Marigny / Bywater neighborhoods into the French Quarter. We watched for a bit, then joined them near the end and came across this man.
He played haunting music on his bike/instrument, constructed of found metal objects, including the colander he wears on his head. As he rode past bubbles floated down from the balconies and people danced by in their bizarre costumes. I love this city. Here is a link to the video or you can scroll down to watch.
